Lake Ashi, Hakone: A Family Guide to the Lake

What Is Lake Ashi?

Lake Ashi (Ashinoko) is the large lake in the middle of Hakone, filling part of the old caldera of the Hakone volcano at roughly 720 metres above sea level. This is the Hakone of the posters, with red pirate ships on blue water, the torii gate of Hakone Shrine on the shore and, on a clear day, Mt. Fuji rising behind the hills.

The lake is long and narrow, running north to south. At the north end is Togendai, where the Hakone Ropeway comes down from Owakudani. At the south end are Moto-Hakone and Hakone-machi, with the shrine, the old Tokaido road and the rebuilt Edo-period checkpoint.

On the east shore is Hakone-en, with an aquarium and a second ropeway up Mt. Komagatake.

For most families, Lake Ashi is one stop on the Hakone loop rather than a destination of its own. You cross it by boat and spend an hour or two at the south end, though with a little more time the lake can fill half a day.

For the whole loop from Tokyo, see our Hakone day trip guide.

How to Get to Lake Ashi from Tokyo

The easiest way from Tokyo is the Odakyu Romancecar from Shinjuku to Hakone-Yumoto (about 80 minutes), then either a bus straight to the lake or the Hakone loop of mountain train, cable car and ropeway to Togendai. Allow about 2 hours door to lake on the bus route and most of the morning on the loop.

Route	How	Arrive at	Best for
Bus from Hakone-Yumoto	Hakone Tozan bus	Moto-Hakone or Hakone-machi	The shortest way to the lake
The Hakone loop	Tozan Railway, cable car, Hakone Ropeway	Togendai, then boat south	A full day with the children riding everything
Highway bus from Shinjuku	Odakyu highway bus	Togendai or Hakone-en	No changes, but slow in weekend traffic
Private car	From your hotel	Any port	Small children, strollers, older relatives

By bus. From Hakone-Yumoto, the Hakone Tozan buses climb to Moto-Hakone port in about an hour. The stop for Hakone Shrine and the boats is the same one. The Hakone Freepass covers these buses.

By the loop. Ride the Hakone Tozan Railway up to Gora, the cable car to Sounzan and the Hakone Ropeway over Owakudani to Togendai, then take the boat across the lake.

This is the classic day, and the Hakone Freepass covers every leg.

Which end first? Most people arrive at Togendai in the early afternoon, so the south end is busiest from about 14:00. If you would rather see the shrine in the quiet morning, do the loop in reverse by taking the bus to Moto-Hakone first, then the boat north and the ropeway down.

Pirate Ships, Sightseeing Boats and Motorboats on Lake Ashi

The pirate ship (Hakone Sightseeing Cruise) is the boat most visitors ride, and for a first visit it is the one to choose. It links the ropeway at Togendai with Moto-Hakone and Hakone-machi in about 25 to 40 minutes, and the Freepass covers it.

Boat	Route	Price (adult / child)	Good to know
Pirate ship	Togendai to Moto-Hakone or Hakone-machi	¥1,700 / ¥850 one way	Freepass covers the standard cabin
Other sightseeing boats	Hakone Sekisho-ato, Moto-Hakone, Hakone-en	Check at the pier	A separate company, smaller boats
Hakone-en motorboat	Hakone-en to Kuzuryu Shrine and back	¥2,200 / ¥1,600	Includes entry to the Kuzuryu forest

The pirate ship. There are three ships, Queen Ashinoko, Royal II and Victory, with open decks and an optional special cabin. A round trip from Togendai is ¥3,000 (child ¥1,300).

The fares, the ships and the special cabin are covered in detail in our Hakone pirate ship guide.

Other sightseeing boats. A second company runs smaller boats around the southern and eastern shore, calling at Hakone Sekisho-ato, Moto-Hakone and Hakone-en. Its fares and timetable are set separately from the pirate ship, so check them at the pier rather than assuming your Freepass covers them.

The Hakone-en motorboat. From Hakone-en, a motorboat takes you to Kuzuryu Shrine in the forest on the east shore and back, for ¥2,200 for adults and ¥1,600 for children aged 4 and up, including entry to the forest.

It runs 9:00 to 15:00, with a break from 12:10 to 13:20.

All the boats can be cancelled in strong wind or fog. Check the operation status on the morning you go.

Where to See Mt. Fuji from Lake Ashi

Mt. Fuji is visible from the lake on clear days, most often on winter mornings from December to February. From June to September it is usually hidden in haze or cloud.

The mountain sits beyond the hills to the north-west, so the best views look up the lake from the south and east shores.

• From the pirate ship. The open deck on the crossing between Togendai and Moto-Hakone gives the classic view of Fuji over the water.
• Onshi-Hakone Park. The terrace of the Lakeside Observation Hall looks across the lake to the mountains and Fuji.
• The Hakone Shrine torii. From the Moto-Hakone shore, the red gate in the water lines up with Fuji on clear days.
• Mt. Komagatake. From the top of the Komagatake Ropeway you look down on the whole lake, with Fuji beyond.

If the morning is cloudy, do not cancel the day. The lake, the boats and the shrine still work, and the summit sometimes clears for a few minutes in the afternoon.

Things to Do Around Lake Ashi

The south and east shores hold most of what there is to see, and the main sights are free.

Hakone Shrine and the Peace Torii

The red Peace Torii standing in the lake is the most photographed spot in Hakone. The shrine grounds are free and always open, a 10-minute walk along the shore from Moto-Hakone port.

Expect a queue for the photo at the gate on busy days. Our Hakone Shrine guide covers the queue, the Treasure Hall and Kuzuryu Shrine.

Onshi-Hakone Park

Built on the site of a former imperial villa, Onshi-Hakone Park sits on a small headland between Moto-Hakone and Hakone-machi. Entry is free. The white Lakeside Observation Hall has a small exhibition on the villa and a balcony with views over the lake and, on clear days, Mt. Fuji.

Children can run on the lawns for a while after the boat.

Hakone Checkpoint (Hakone Sekisho)

The rebuilt Hakone Sekisho shows where travellers on the Edo-period Tokaido road were stopped and searched. Children like the guardhouses with their life-size figures. Entry is ¥500 for adults and ¥250 for children (¥400 and ¥150 with the Hakone Freepass), open 9:00 to 17:00, or to 16:30 from December to February.

It is a 5-minute walk from Hakone-machi port. See our Hakone Checkpoint guide.

The Old Tokaido Cedar Avenue

Between Moto-Hakone and Hakone-machi, a stretch of the old Tokaido road runs under tall cedars planted in the Edo period. It is flat and shady, free, and links the shrine, the park and the checkpoint on foot, so you can walk one way and take the boat or bus the other.

Komagatake Ropeway

From Hakone-en, the Hakone Komagatake Ropeway climbs to the top of Mt. Komagatake in about 7 minutes, with views over the lake and, on clear days, Fuji and the sea. A return ticket is ¥2,200 for adults and ¥1,100 for primary school children.

It runs every 20 minutes from 9:00, with the last car up at 16:30. It is a different line from the Hakone Ropeway and is not on the Freepass.

At the top, the small Motomiya shrine of Hakone Shrine stands a short walk from the station.

Hakone-en Aquarium

Next to the ropeway station, Hakone-en Aquarium suits small children or a rainy day. It has seal feeding and a diver in the big seawater tank, and at 723 metres it claims to be the highest aquarium in Japan with a seawater tank.

Entry is ¥1,600 for adults and ¥800 for children from age 4 to primary school, open 9:00 to 16:30.

A Half-Day Around Lake Ashi

The simplest half-day is a boat ride, the shrine and a walk. Cross the lake by pirate ship, see the torii, and walk the cedar avenue to the park and the checkpoint before the bus back to Hakone-Yumoto.

Time	Stop
13:00	Pirate ship from Togendai to Moto-Hakone
13:40	Hakone Shrine and the Peace Torii
14:40	Cedar avenue to Onshi-Hakone Park
15:20	Hakone Checkpoint
16:15	Bus from Hakone-machi to Hakone-Yumoto

With small children who need a rest, swap the checkpoint for the aquarium at Hakone-en, which is indoors and has seats. Check the time of the last bus and the last boat before you set off. Both finish in the late afternoon.

Lake Ashi with Kids

The boats on Lake Ashi are big and stable, the lakeside paths are mostly flat, and there are toilets and snacks at every port.

• The boat. Children usually want the open deck. Hold small hands at the rail, and bring a jacket because it is windy on the water.
• Strollers. The ports and the cedar avenue are fine with a stroller. The stone stairs up to the main hall of Hakone Shrine are not, so leave it at the bottom.
• Temperature. The lake is much higher than Tokyo and often several degrees cooler. Bring a layer even in summer.
• Rest stops. Moto-Hakone port has cafés and toilets, and Onshi-Hakone Park has room to run.
• The day's length. If the loop has already been long, skip the extras and do only the boat and the shrine.

Best Time to Visit Lake Ashi

The day works in any season. What changes is what you see.

• Winter (December to February). The air is clearest and Mt. Fuji most likely to show, but the deck is cold.
• Spring (late March to May). Cherry blossom and fresh green arrive, with Golden Week crowds in early May.
• Summer (June to August). It is cool compared with Tokyo, but Fuji is often hidden and June is the rainy season.
• Autumn (October to November). This is the busiest season. Hakone's leaves start to turn at the higher areas such as the lake from early November and work down to Hakone-Yumoto by early December.

On any day, arrive at the lake before 11:00 or after 15:00 to miss the worst of the queues for the boats.

Lake Ashi with Young Children

With children, you do not need the whole loop. Leave large bags in a coin locker before you start, ride the boat one way, and choose how much of the rest to ride.

Our private tours are on foot in Tokyo and Yokohama. Your guide rides the trains with you, and each of you pays your own fare with an IC card. See our Tokyo private tour with kids.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is Lake Ashi worth visiting?

Yes, especially as part of a Hakone day. The pirate ship crossing, Hakone Shrine's torii in the water and the chance of Mt. Fuji make it the highlight for most families, and the main sights on the shore are free.

How do I get to Lake Ashi from Tokyo?

Take the Romancecar from Shinjuku to Hakone-Yumoto, about 80 minutes, then a Hakone Tozan bus to Moto-Hakone, about an hour. Or ride the Hakone loop and arrive at Togendai by ropeway.

How long is the boat ride on Lake Ashi?

The pirate ship takes about 25 to 40 minutes one way between Togendai and Moto-Hakone or Hakone-machi. A round trip from Togendai takes about 70 to 90 minutes.

Can you see Mt. Fuji from Lake Ashi?

Yes, on clear days, most often on winter mornings. From June to September it is usually hidden by cloud. The best views are from the boat, the Moto-Hakone shore and Onshi-Hakone Park.

Is the Lake Ashi cruise included in the Hakone Freepass?

The pirate ship's standard cabin is included in the Hakone Freepass. The special cabin costs extra. Other boats on the lake and the Komagatake Ropeway are run by different companies and are not covered.

How much time do you need at Lake Ashi?

Two to three hours covers the boat, Hakone Shrine and a walk along the shore. Add an hour for the Komagatake Ropeway or the aquarium at Hakone-en.

Sources

https://www.hakonenavi.jp/international/en/transportation/hakone-kankosen
https://www.hakonenavi.jp/international/en/station/motohakone
https://www.princehotels.co.jp/amuse/hakone-en/ropeway/
https://www.princehotels.co.jp/amuse/hakone-en/suizokukan/
https://www.princehotels.co.jp/amuse/hakone-en/play/boat.html
https://www.hakonesekisyo.jp/
https://www.pref.kanagawa.jp/docs/tu5/cnt/f6599/p19701.html
https://hakonejinja.or.jp/hakone/
https://odakyu-global.com/passes/hakone-freepass/
https://www.hakonenavi.jp/feature/8118